16 June - Homeward bound

Kathleen’s breakfast was one of the best I’d been offered during my trip, but for some reason I wasn’t able to finish it, feeling slightly queasy at some point, so much so that I took a couple of paracetomal to see if that would help.  I’ve no idea what was causing it, and once home also had a few bouts of it.  It was possibly due to the food at the Border Inn, but more likely just the sign of the exhaustion I was feeling after my battle with the weather across the Cheviots.

Saying my goodbyes, and having had directions from Kathleen to help me change buses in Kelso, I caught the bus from KY to Kelso, which left bang on time at 0920.  I knew once I arrived in Kelso I’d only have 5 minutes to get myself to the bus for Berwick-upon-Tweed, where I was to catch the train to Worthing.  If I missed it I had an alternative, but it required 2 buses and a circuitous route, so I was mightily relieved when the bus dropped me in Kelso slightly early and Kathleen’s directions proved spot on. 

The train journey proved uneventful, apart from a delay while on the tube between stations in London, and I was reunited with my wife and daughter bang on time on Saturday evening, my lifelong ambition over!

15 June - Bryness to Kirk Yetholme

I woke around 5 as light dawned, and was away from Bryness by 5.30.  Rain had already started, so it was on with the waterproofs before leaving Forest View, but it stopped just before I started the climb away from the A68 up onto Bryness Hill.  That lull was the only part of the route that was dry, and as I crested Bryness Hill I got hit by the wind and the rain.  While the rain was heavy my waterproofs coped with that, but the wind was something else.  Strong and seemingly constantly off to my right or into my face, making going extremely tough and at times so strong as to nearly push me over.

Wind chill was beginning to affect my hands and foolishly I left it slightly too long before I got my gloves out, as my fingers were struggling to work fully.  I had a pair of hand warmers in my sac, and those combined with the gloves at least got some feeling back into my hands allowing me to press on until I’d covered the first 9 miles to Yearning Saddle Hut.  Once there I was able to strip off my Berghaus shell, get a hot meal going and change socks, as for the second time on the walk my Asolo fabric boots had simply been overwhelmed by the sheer amount of water they were having to face, both from the rain and the very boggy ground.

Mentally buoyed up after a hot curry it was then back out into the wind.  The walk to the next hut, at Hen Hole, seemed to take forever and apart from remembering it was still wet and windy much of it is a blur.  I remember reaching the track junction at Clennell Street, and wishing at that point I was to be collected and taken back to Bryness to be dropped there again tomorrow, but as I hadn’t booked their ‘2 day package’ I walked on.  It wasn’t long after that I began to get quite concerned, as I could feel myself getting colder and beginning to recognise the very early stages of hypothermia.  This was despite a base layer, fleece and Berghaus shell but even they were slowly allowing the cold in, mainly due to the wind chill caused by the strong wind, so I was relieved to see the signpost pointing the way to the Cheviot spur, where I was able to turn left and head across Auchope Cairn and quickly down into the hut at Hen Hole.

Glad at last to be out of the wind again, I started the second of my hot meals cooking and then had a good look at the map.  Conditions were so poor that I knew I had to seriously consider waiting out the storm at the hut, but the distance from the hut to the point where the poor weather route dives off to the West of the Cheviots, and quickly drops into the valley below, where I knew I would get respite from the wind, was only 2 miles and I was confident I could manage that, so after eating my vegetable curry (not that nice but hot!) it was back out into the open.

Shortly after leaving the hut comes the final hill, the Schil, and it was a slightly sad moment, knowing that from there it was downhill to KY and the end of my 15 day journey, but never-the-less I was glad to be off it as I could then drop rapidly away from the Cheviots and into calm air, although the rain continued.

From there it is a pretty simple walk into KY and I was able to ring the bell at Cross Keys B&B bang on 6 o’clock, and must have looked like a drowned rat when Kathleen opened the door.  I’d picked Cross Keys as it is the closest B&B to the end of the Pennine Way, and when I did so some 6 months ago I could never have imagined how pleased I would have been to get there, knowing that I didn’t have to walk any further at that precise moment!

I got a lovely warm Scottish welcome from Kathleen, and was relieved to be shown to a lovely room overlooking the KY Green, with views across to the Border Hotel and, if not still obscured by the low cloud, the Cheviots!  After stripping off and warming up with gallons of tea and a hot shower, I headed across to the Border Hotel to sign the book, get my certificate and sink a few pints of real ale, not necessarily in that order! 

Having enquired about ordering food, and finding they were very busy that night so couldn’t offer me anything for about an hour or so, I settled into a corner to reflect on the day’s events.

I think the barman took pity on me, as my order was taken shortly and the food arrived within 15 minutes, rather than the expected hour, and while it may have been my exhausted state the food was superb, and quite clearly showed why the Border Hotel was so popular.

Back in my room, I checked the odometer on my Etrex 20.  The distance is quoted at 268 miles in most guidebooks.  My GPS showed 265.7 miles, pretty accurate considering I taken the original (and 2 miles shorter) route at the start over Kinder rather than up Jacob’s Ladder.

Then it was off to bed, with sleep coming pretty rapidly!

14 June - Bellingham to Bryness

Breakfast at Linden Cottage was on a par with the accommodation, pretty poor, so I didn’t linger and got away fairly quickly.  On the map this looked like another long day, but after yesterday the walking was extremely easy, with the 16 or so miles covered in just under 6 hours.  The first part of the walk is across heather moorland,

and the latter through the Kielder Forest,

where on the day I walked through it seemed to constantly reverberate to the sound of artillery firing at nearby Otterburn ranges, bringing back memories of my time there in my early twenties firing 25 pounders and 3” mortars!

Thanks to the swift passage I arrived at Forrest View quite early, so sat outside and enjoyed a well-earned rest until Colin and Joyce returned, when I was welcomed inside.  Forrest View is an experience not to be missed.  Colin and Joyce have turned what was a run-down youth hostel into 5 star accommodation, while still keeping prices extremely reasonable.  Add the fact that Colin runs his own bar with various real ales on tap, that food is also served in the evenings and is of a high quality and you have a recipe for a great place to stay.  If I’d known then what I was to face tomorrow, I’d have taken advantage of their package that sees guests picked up between Bryness and Kirk Yetholme allowing the route to be split into 2 days!

As it was I intended to start early (around 6) and breakfast on route, and while the weather forecast that evening predicted rain it didn’t quite convey the storm that I was about to face.  Ignorance is bliss they say and that, plus a couple of pints of real ale, at least allowed me a good night’s sleep!

13 June - Greenhead to Bellingham

This was a tough and long day, and for anyone reading this blog and intending to do the Pennine Way I suggest it should be split into two days.  While Hadrian’s Wall is clearly a great historic attraction,

the terrain is strength sapping as you are constantly descending and climbing steep slopes as you follow the wall along the roller coaster crest of the Whin Sill, and progress to Hotbank Crags, where at last the path turns away from the wall, was slow. 

Pace picks up as you head northwards, although the path was pretty boggy at times, especially around Hawk Side but I enjoyed that part of the walk, arriving at Bellingham around 5.30, where I was staying at Linden Cottage, a B&B up for sale and not to be recommended. 

There I was advised to eat at the Rose and Crown, but if you like real ale don’t bother as they don’t serve any!  Instead I crossed the road to the Cheviot Hotel, which serves good real ale and has a comprehensive food menu.

12 June - Alston to Greenhead

After a good night’s sleep and a lovely local breakfast at Lowbyer Manor, I elected to take the South Tyne Trail to rejoin the Pennine Way at Kirkhaugh Station.  Until Burnstones the Pennine Way crosses and recrosses the South Tyne Trail and so it’s possible to follow it all the way to Burnstones, but I was keen to stay on the Way itself as much as possible. After Burnstones Maiden Way, Hartleyburn Common and Blenkinsopp Common seemed to follow in quick succession, and I arrived at Holmhead Farm Guesthouse just before 3, to be welcomed by Alan and his wife Judy, again with a nice pot of tea! 

Overall though I found this B&B to be poor value for money, with no TV in the room and a duvet that was far too thick for the weather, meaning a restless night’s sleep and it was difficult to see why they charged £14 more than Lowbyer Manor.  The plus side was visiting the Greenhead Hotel, good ale, tasty food and friendly staff.  Knowing that they also do accommodation I’d book there should I ever do the Pennine Way again!

11 June - Dufton to Alston

Away from the YH by 8, and started the long approach to Cross Fell, the highest point on the Pennine Way.  After passing Dufton Pike the map indicates this is going to be a long slog to the top, but in reality I found it rather easy, maybe the ‘early to bed’ last night recharged my batteries more than I’d hoped!  Mist descended shortly after crossing Swindale Beck but I was still surprised at how quickly (so it seemed) that Knock Fell was reached, then

Great Dun Fell

and Cross Fell, the cross shelter there appearing out of the mist at about 50 metres visibility. 

I knew Greg’s Hut wasn’t too far on, so resisted the urge to stop and headed for Greg’s Hut instead, where I paused for lunch. 

By the time I’d finished the mist had lifted, and so I was able to start the long descent into Garrigill able to at last see more than 50 metres or so in front.

While I still felt an ache in my right thigh the descent into Garrigill was far less painful than the previous day, so I was happy that the strain/sprain was improving, and hoped it wouldn’t reappear (thankfully it didn’t).

The route from Garrigill to Alston roughly follows the River South Tyne, but it’s partly overgrown with many styles, progress appeared slow until I at last emerged onto the A686 leading into Alston, where I was staying at Lowbyer Manor B&B.  This has to be the best B&B along the route, and one of the cheapest at £36, which goes to prove you don’t need to charge the earth to produce a good quality overnight stay.  Of the next 2 B&Bs I stayed at, one was £14 more yet slightly inferior, the other was £3 cheaper and I’d never stay there again, nor recommend it to anyone.

Welcomed by Laura with a fresh pot of tea and biscuits, served in their impressive lounge, I was feeling very relaxed and now confident nothing would stop me finishing, although I was very nearly proved wrong on the last day!

10 June - Middleton to Dufton

This was always going to be a long day, and so it proved.  The pain in my thigh had thankfully gone, it was dry and initially the route follows the River Tees,

passing the 2 waterfalls of Low and High Force,

and generally being an easy, level walk on good paths alongside the river.  Then comes the sting, the rocks of Falcon Clints!  In my youth I’m sure I would have skipped over the mile or so of boulders but at 60 I found them very difficult and slow to cross, so I was immensely glad when it was all behind me.

Cauldron Scout was an amazing sight, in full flow after the recent rains, and is probably one of the, if not the, most impressive waterfall in the UK. 

Having climbed up to the top the nagging ache in my right thigh, which had appeared late yesterday, was back.  By the time I’d passed High Cup Nick

and was starting the descent towards Dufton it had slowed my pace downhill to around 2 mph, and so I limped into Dufton Youth Hostel worried about the impact it might have on the coming days.

The evening meal at the YH was a typical YH meal, washed down with a bottle of Undertaker Ale, and then it was an early night for 3 reasons.  The days walk had really tired me out, tomorrow was described as a ‘tough day’ in the Cicerone guide, and I wanted to give my leg the chance to recover as it was clear that if it didn’t, or even got worse, then all hopes of finishing might be wishful thinking.

9 June - Tan Hill Inn to Middleton

Wandered down to breakfast and sat down, only to be told that as I was a B&B guest I needed to sit in the other room, “this room is cattle class” yelled Tracy! 

Having had a large and well-cooked breakfast in the ‘right room’ it was time to head off across Sleightholme Moor.  Thankfully the rain of yesterday had stopped, but the boggy ground soon had my still wet boots leaking again, and I could feel my socks beginning to feel damp.  Gods Bridge came and went, and after crossing the A66 using the underpass I stopped at Ravock Castle for lunch, and a change of socks.   Then onwards to Blackton Reservoir followed shortly by Grassholme (and its reservoir),

and then to Middleton where I was staying at the Old Barn B&B, getting a lovely welcome from the owner, Linda, and given a large pot of tea and biscuits.  The only downside was that for the last couple of miles I’d been getting a stabbing pain in my right thigh that only appeared if I was walking downhill, and of course the last couple of miles into Middleton is downhill!  Relief came if I walked backwards, but otherwise it made the descent into Middleton slow and painful.

8 June - Hawes to Tan Hill Inn

Great start to the day with a well-cooked breakfast, and another B&B aiming to use local produce. The rain from last night hadn’t cleared, so for only the second time I had to don waterproofs prior to setting off.  There’s a gentle start following the River Ure until Hardraw is reached, and then the long climb begins up onto Black Hill Moss and then onto Great Shunner Fell.  The rain stopped about half way up, but visibility remained poor with swirling mist and I was grateful to have a rest in the cross shelter on Great Shunner Fell. 

Rain returned during the short descent into Thwaite, where I took the opportunity to grab a pot of tea at Keartons tea shop.  From there the walk towards Keld follows a rather awkward and uneven track, crossing various boulder slopes and I was grateful to at last reach Keld.  The rain if anything was getting heavier, and the slog up to Tan Hill was very wet and boggy, and for the first time during the walk I got wet feet as my fabric boots were overwhelmed by the amount of water they were having to cope with.

Arriving at Tan Hill Inn, and knowing its reputation for joke making, I was pretty much prepared for anything although I did baulk slightly when I was told “oh, yes, we’ve got you booked in but in 2 days’ time”!!  My response was simply to say that I’d arranged it for tonight with Tracy, at which point a room was found.  I still don’t know if it was a genuine mix up or one of their leg pulls!

Had a few pints of very nice Old Peculiar that evening, and was even persuaded to pull one of my own pints!  Was also lucky to find a live band (rock folk) was playing so the evening passed quite quickly and by the time I’d returned to my room my kit (except for my boots) had all dried out.

7 June - Horton to Hawes

Dropped off at Pen y Ghent café around 0930 by my wife, who this time was heading home to Sussex so said goodbye to her and my daughter for the next 9 days, longest we’ve ever been apart.  Resisted the urge to grab another one of the café’s pint mugs of tea and headed instead out of the village and up onto Birkwith Moor.  I found today a rather boring day, with the exception of Ling Gill and Cam Beck, crossed by an old bridge dated 1765,

and later a brief view of the Ribblehead Viaduct from Cam High Road.  Mist came down while I was on Cam High Road and so I was rather surprised by a female runner sprinting out of the mist while I was resting at the rocks above Cam Houses.  The descent into Hawes is uninspiring, made even more so by the rain starting when I was only about half a mile from the B&B as until then my waterproofs had remained in my sac!

In Hawes I was staying at Herriots B&B, which also has a café and art gallery associated with it.  Rain was heavy that evening and I joined the locals in what is a very popular fish and chip shop, where I had their fish and chip special, which included mushy peas, slice of bread and a mug of tea!

6 June - Malham to Horton

I was looking forward to today, not least because I could get away straight after breakfast.  The real draw though was the thought of Pen y Ghent and its namesake café in Horton.  A short walk from Beck Hall brought me to Malham Cove, and a climb of the stone steps that allows a swift ascent to the top. 

It was then that the rain started, so it was waterproofs on for the second time in 6 days and then press on.  Malham tarn came and went and by the time I reached Fountains Fell the rain was torrential.  Had there been somewhere to shelter I’d have done so, but there isn’t so it was a simple matter of continuing on.  Thankfully after about an hour the rain abated, but I still seemed dry and my Asolo boots seemed waterproof.

As Pen y Ghent came into view it was shrouded in cloud, which lifted a tad to enable me to take a couple of photos but it was clear vis at the top would be poor. 

As I approached the steep climb at the western end I spotted a group of 4 young walkers behind me.  I never like to be passed on a hill so increased my pace as best I could and was pleased to be able to stay in front of them all the way to the top (60 is the new 40 apparently but I felt all of my 60 years at that point!).

Relying on my GPS to take me safely onto the right route off the top I glanced behind me after about 30 minutes of leaving the top to see it now bathed in glorious sunshine! 

If only I’d walked slower today I’d have enjoyed the views from the top, but at least I was now able to take off my wet weather gear.  I did consider for a second or two about returning up the hill, but in the end decided to head on towards Horton, the draw of the famous Pen y Ghent café being stronger.   There I signed the book and had one of their distinctive ‘pint mugs of tea’.  Another one followed which kept me occupied until my wife arrived to collect me.

5 June - Cowling to Malham

Dropped off around 0930 by my wife, where she’d collected me the day before, and with a quick wave I was off.  I found today a rather boring walk, joining as it does the end of the South Pennines to the beginning of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.  Generally it’s a succession of rolling countryside full of fields, mainly inhabited by sheep, with the attraction of following part of the Leeds and Liverpool canal for a short while. 

The highlight of the walk for me was going to be visiting the famous Dalesman Café in Gargrave. I say was because it was the Tuesday after the Jubilee Weekend, and the only day that weekend (and probably the whole year) that the café was shut!!  I could hardly credit it when I saw the sign on the door, looking forward as I was to a lovely cup of tea.  Thwarted I pressed on towards Malham, but then remembered the Townend Farm shop and cafe in Airton, so diverted there for a tea and a welcome slice of walnut cake! 

Eventually I managed to pull myself away and walked on into Malham and Beck Hall where we were staying.  Great welcome even though I’d arrived early and got another pot of tea to enjoy sitting outside listening to the babbling brook until the family turned up about an hour later.

That evening we ate in the Buck Inn, not particularly liked by the rest of the family but I had a good meal, although pricey, and a great pint of Theakstons.

4 June - Badgersfield Farm to Cowling

No lift needed today as I’d finished here yesterday so leaving the family to have a slow start I got away promptly after breakfast and headed across fields full of sheep and crossed Colden Water over a lovely old ‘clapper’ bridge.

A gentle slope then leads over Heptonstall Moor, with some great views, before crossing a footbridge across Graining Water and on to Walshaw Dean reservoir, where I stopped for a spot of lunch.  From there the route got busier as I approached Withins Heights, but the tourists disappeared as I go closer to Ponden Reservoir, where there are a few steep, but thankfully short, climbs up on to Ickornshaw Moor and thence to Cowling, where I was again picked up by my wife.

That evening we ate again at the Pack Horse inn, and I was feeling quite pleased that so far I’d not found the walk too challenging.

3 June - Bleakedgate Moor to Badgersfield Farm

Day dawned early, and I was awake by 6, unfortunately the rest were still fast asleep!  Eventually got to breakfast at 8, and then it was into the car to be dropped where I finished yesterday, allowing wife and daughter to head towards the Eureka Children’s Museum in Halifax.

Weather was not good when I was dropped off, rain and wind, so it was on with the waterproofs and then away.  The walk started with a view I’d be looking forward to, the sight of the vehicles rushing under the bridge that carries the Pennine Way across the M62.  From there a short walk across Blackstone Edge, passing the Aiggin Stone, leads down to the A58 and the White Horse pub.  I’d originally intended to stop here for lunch, but given the extra miles yesterday I was now way too early (shame cos it looked very inviting) so pressed on past Blackstone Edge reservoir and two more before turning right to follow Warland Drain in the direction of Stoodley Pike. 

From there it’s downhill into the River Calder valley, followed by an uphill climb that can be tricky to follow until reaching the flatter fields surrounding Badgersfield Farm.  Worth noting here that my Etrex, like elsewhere, kept me unerringly on the straight and narrow, without it I might have already done a few more extra miles!

Ate tonight in the Stubbing Wharf in Hebden, another lovely meal and good ale to wash it down.

2 June - Crowden to Bleakedgate Moor

Another good night’s sleep, and a typical YH breakfast, enough to keep me going all day!  Got away by 9 although I wasn’t sure how far I’d be walking today.  My wife and daughter were driving up to collect me and take me on to Badgersfield Farm B&B near Hebden Bridge, with 3 potential pick ups planned between Standedge and Windy Hill.

A quick climb away from Crowden and I’m at the top of Laddow rocks, with fine views across Crowden Great Brook. 

Onwards across Black Hill and then down to Wessenden Head, followed by a gentle stroll along the reservoirs, before arriving at the A62 at Standedge.  Texts between my wife and myself meant that I was walking to the furthest of the 3 pick-ups, which would mean a longer walk today but an easier day tomorrow, so off I pushed across White Hill and onto the car park on the A672 just short of the M62.  

Twenty minutes later my wife and daughter turned up, and we headed off to the B&B.  Badgersfield Farm is directly on the Pennine Way, and Miriam and Gordon were excellent hosts.  Rooms are very spacious with comfortable beds, which we all made good use of after a lovely meal at the Pack Horse Inn just outside Hebden.

1 June - Edale to Crowden

Day one dawned and a quick look out the window showed low cloud on the surrounding hills, but I’d enjoyed a lovely night’s sleep so felt well rested.  Breakfast was a gargantuan affair, and set me up perfectly to start the Pennine Way.  As I went to pay I got a surprise when Theresa told me to put the payment towards Help for Heroes, the charity I was raising money for, a very generous gesture and much appreciated. Leaving the B&B I switched on my GPS and, after my recent problem that required a visit to Go Outdoors when they replaced the ‘broken’ Etrex, I was relieved to see it boot normally!  Then followed the short walk into Edale, to arrive at the Nag’s Head where I reset the trip on my GPS, never to reset it until the walk was over. Gulp … it was now 0810 … time to take the first inch towards the 268 miles or so. 

Leaving the Nag’s Head I headed up the ‘old’ route that took me up Grindsbrook

onto the Kinder Plateau, and was pleasantly surprised to reach the top within the hour I’d mentally given myself. 

Very misty on top, but thanks to my GPS I had little trouble finding my way across the Kinder plateau to Kinder Downfall

The rest of the trip to Crowden YH seemed a simple enough stroll across to Mill Hill (where I bumped into Peak Lad from the walking forum) and onwards to Bleaklow, with a pause when I reached Snake Pass for lunch.  Having heard that Day One puts many Pennine Wayfarers off I was pleased at my (apparent) fitness level, since I completed the 17 miles in just over 7 hours.  I’d managed to book one of the few single rooms at Crowden YH, and very comfortable it was too, allowing me to swiftly change out of my boots and then sup the can of Speckled Hen that I’d sneaked into my rucksack at the last moment before leaving home! 

Had the evening meal at Crowden, fish cake to start and then a Thai red curry washed down with a bottle of Undertaker ale, a lovely pint!

31 May

Well this is it, the culmination of planning over the last year of my lifelong wish to walk the Pennine Way.  I woke early, having had a rather restless night full of anticipation for the 2 weeks or so that lay ahead.  Finished the final packing of the rucksack, to find it weighed in at just under 15 kgs when fully loaded (including around 3L of fluids).  It’s a rucksack I never intended to take with me, a Eurohike 65L that I got in a sale in Blacks for just over £20 last summer.  Bargain!  Plan always was to use (abuse?) it during my training and then buy a better one for the walk, but it suited me so well that I decided to stick with it.  Bottom compartment contains all my spare clothing, wash kit and a pair of soft shoes for ‘evening wear’.  Top compartment has my ‘emergency stuff’, comprehensive first aid kit, emergency rations, towel and spare socks just in case my feet get too wet while walking, hydration pack, phone and space for my waterproof shell and fleece. Top pocket has my hat, sweatband, gloves and waterproof trousers.  Map pocket contains spare compass, whistle and Paddy Dillon’s well-thumbed Pennine Way Guide.  Side pockets contain snacks, spare water and lucozade … oh, and the essential (for me anyway) ‘tea flask’!

The 5 hour train journey from Worthing to Edale was uneventful and on time, depositing me just before 5 pm, not bad for £31.  I’d booked a room with Mark and Theresa, who run the Ollerbrook Barn B&B just outside Edale.  Greeted like a long lost friend on arrival and shown to a lovely room with views across the Hope valley.

Spent a few minutes firing up my GPS (Etrex 20) and left it sitting for about half an hour to ensure it had built up its database and now knew it was some 200 miles North of where it was last switched on.

Spent the evening in the Ramblers Inn, having read quite poor reviews about the Nags Head.  Beer and food in the Ramblers was excellent, and I thoroughly enjoyed the steak and ale pie and the pint that helped to wash it down.  Could have spent all evening there, but mindful of the challenge that lay ahead I didn’t, and was safely tucked up in bed by ten.