9 June - Tan Hill Inn to Middleton

Wandered down to breakfast and sat down, only to be told that as I was a B&B guest I needed to sit in the other room, “this room is cattle class” yelled Tracy! 

Having had a large and well-cooked breakfast in the ‘right room’ it was time to head off across Sleightholme Moor.  Thankfully the rain of yesterday had stopped, but the boggy ground soon had my still wet boots leaking again, and I could feel my socks beginning to feel damp.  Gods Bridge came and went, and after crossing the A66 using the underpass I stopped at Ravock Castle for lunch, and a change of socks.   Then onwards to Blackton Reservoir followed shortly by Grassholme (and its reservoir),

and then to Middleton where I was staying at the Old Barn B&B, getting a lovely welcome from the owner, Linda, and given a large pot of tea and biscuits.  The only downside was that for the last couple of miles I’d been getting a stabbing pain in my right thigh that only appeared if I was walking downhill, and of course the last couple of miles into Middleton is downhill!  Relief came if I walked backwards, but otherwise it made the descent into Middleton slow and painful.

8 June - Hawes to Tan Hill Inn

Great start to the day with a well-cooked breakfast, and another B&B aiming to use local produce. The rain from last night hadn’t cleared, so for only the second time I had to don waterproofs prior to setting off.  There’s a gentle start following the River Ure until Hardraw is reached, and then the long climb begins up onto Black Hill Moss and then onto Great Shunner Fell.  The rain stopped about half way up, but visibility remained poor with swirling mist and I was grateful to have a rest in the cross shelter on Great Shunner Fell. 

Rain returned during the short descent into Thwaite, where I took the opportunity to grab a pot of tea at Keartons tea shop.  From there the walk towards Keld follows a rather awkward and uneven track, crossing various boulder slopes and I was grateful to at last reach Keld.  The rain if anything was getting heavier, and the slog up to Tan Hill was very wet and boggy, and for the first time during the walk I got wet feet as my fabric boots were overwhelmed by the amount of water they were having to cope with.

Arriving at Tan Hill Inn, and knowing its reputation for joke making, I was pretty much prepared for anything although I did baulk slightly when I was told “oh, yes, we’ve got you booked in but in 2 days’ time”!!  My response was simply to say that I’d arranged it for tonight with Tracy, at which point a room was found.  I still don’t know if it was a genuine mix up or one of their leg pulls!

Had a few pints of very nice Old Peculiar that evening, and was even persuaded to pull one of my own pints!  Was also lucky to find a live band (rock folk) was playing so the evening passed quite quickly and by the time I’d returned to my room my kit (except for my boots) had all dried out.

7 June - Horton to Hawes

Dropped off at Pen y Ghent café around 0930 by my wife, who this time was heading home to Sussex so said goodbye to her and my daughter for the next 9 days, longest we’ve ever been apart.  Resisted the urge to grab another one of the café’s pint mugs of tea and headed instead out of the village and up onto Birkwith Moor.  I found today a rather boring day, with the exception of Ling Gill and Cam Beck, crossed by an old bridge dated 1765,

and later a brief view of the Ribblehead Viaduct from Cam High Road.  Mist came down while I was on Cam High Road and so I was rather surprised by a female runner sprinting out of the mist while I was resting at the rocks above Cam Houses.  The descent into Hawes is uninspiring, made even more so by the rain starting when I was only about half a mile from the B&B as until then my waterproofs had remained in my sac!

In Hawes I was staying at Herriots B&B, which also has a café and art gallery associated with it.  Rain was heavy that evening and I joined the locals in what is a very popular fish and chip shop, where I had their fish and chip special, which included mushy peas, slice of bread and a mug of tea!

6 June - Malham to Horton

I was looking forward to today, not least because I could get away straight after breakfast.  The real draw though was the thought of Pen y Ghent and its namesake café in Horton.  A short walk from Beck Hall brought me to Malham Cove, and a climb of the stone steps that allows a swift ascent to the top. 

It was then that the rain started, so it was waterproofs on for the second time in 6 days and then press on.  Malham tarn came and went and by the time I reached Fountains Fell the rain was torrential.  Had there been somewhere to shelter I’d have done so, but there isn’t so it was a simple matter of continuing on.  Thankfully after about an hour the rain abated, but I still seemed dry and my Asolo boots seemed waterproof.

As Pen y Ghent came into view it was shrouded in cloud, which lifted a tad to enable me to take a couple of photos but it was clear vis at the top would be poor. 

As I approached the steep climb at the western end I spotted a group of 4 young walkers behind me.  I never like to be passed on a hill so increased my pace as best I could and was pleased to be able to stay in front of them all the way to the top (60 is the new 40 apparently but I felt all of my 60 years at that point!).

Relying on my GPS to take me safely onto the right route off the top I glanced behind me after about 30 minutes of leaving the top to see it now bathed in glorious sunshine! 

If only I’d walked slower today I’d have enjoyed the views from the top, but at least I was now able to take off my wet weather gear.  I did consider for a second or two about returning up the hill, but in the end decided to head on towards Horton, the draw of the famous Pen y Ghent café being stronger.   There I signed the book and had one of their distinctive ‘pint mugs of tea’.  Another one followed which kept me occupied until my wife arrived to collect me.

5 June - Cowling to Malham

Dropped off around 0930 by my wife, where she’d collected me the day before, and with a quick wave I was off.  I found today a rather boring walk, joining as it does the end of the South Pennines to the beginning of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.  Generally it’s a succession of rolling countryside full of fields, mainly inhabited by sheep, with the attraction of following part of the Leeds and Liverpool canal for a short while. 

The highlight of the walk for me was going to be visiting the famous Dalesman Café in Gargrave. I say was because it was the Tuesday after the Jubilee Weekend, and the only day that weekend (and probably the whole year) that the café was shut!!  I could hardly credit it when I saw the sign on the door, looking forward as I was to a lovely cup of tea.  Thwarted I pressed on towards Malham, but then remembered the Townend Farm shop and cafe in Airton, so diverted there for a tea and a welcome slice of walnut cake! 

Eventually I managed to pull myself away and walked on into Malham and Beck Hall where we were staying.  Great welcome even though I’d arrived early and got another pot of tea to enjoy sitting outside listening to the babbling brook until the family turned up about an hour later.

That evening we ate in the Buck Inn, not particularly liked by the rest of the family but I had a good meal, although pricey, and a great pint of Theakstons.

4 June - Badgersfield Farm to Cowling

No lift needed today as I’d finished here yesterday so leaving the family to have a slow start I got away promptly after breakfast and headed across fields full of sheep and crossed Colden Water over a lovely old ‘clapper’ bridge.

A gentle slope then leads over Heptonstall Moor, with some great views, before crossing a footbridge across Graining Water and on to Walshaw Dean reservoir, where I stopped for a spot of lunch.  From there the route got busier as I approached Withins Heights, but the tourists disappeared as I go closer to Ponden Reservoir, where there are a few steep, but thankfully short, climbs up on to Ickornshaw Moor and thence to Cowling, where I was again picked up by my wife.

That evening we ate again at the Pack Horse inn, and I was feeling quite pleased that so far I’d not found the walk too challenging.

3 June - Bleakedgate Moor to Badgersfield Farm

Day dawned early, and I was awake by 6, unfortunately the rest were still fast asleep!  Eventually got to breakfast at 8, and then it was into the car to be dropped where I finished yesterday, allowing wife and daughter to head towards the Eureka Children’s Museum in Halifax.

Weather was not good when I was dropped off, rain and wind, so it was on with the waterproofs and then away.  The walk started with a view I’d be looking forward to, the sight of the vehicles rushing under the bridge that carries the Pennine Way across the M62.  From there a short walk across Blackstone Edge, passing the Aiggin Stone, leads down to the A58 and the White Horse pub.  I’d originally intended to stop here for lunch, but given the extra miles yesterday I was now way too early (shame cos it looked very inviting) so pressed on past Blackstone Edge reservoir and two more before turning right to follow Warland Drain in the direction of Stoodley Pike. 

From there it’s downhill into the River Calder valley, followed by an uphill climb that can be tricky to follow until reaching the flatter fields surrounding Badgersfield Farm.  Worth noting here that my Etrex, like elsewhere, kept me unerringly on the straight and narrow, without it I might have already done a few more extra miles!

Ate tonight in the Stubbing Wharf in Hebden, another lovely meal and good ale to wash it down.