6 June - Malham to Horton

I was looking forward to today, not least because I could get away straight after breakfast.  The real draw though was the thought of Pen y Ghent and its namesake café in Horton.  A short walk from Beck Hall brought me to Malham Cove, and a climb of the stone steps that allows a swift ascent to the top. 

It was then that the rain started, so it was waterproofs on for the second time in 6 days and then press on.  Malham tarn came and went and by the time I reached Fountains Fell the rain was torrential.  Had there been somewhere to shelter I’d have done so, but there isn’t so it was a simple matter of continuing on.  Thankfully after about an hour the rain abated, but I still seemed dry and my Asolo boots seemed waterproof.

As Pen y Ghent came into view it was shrouded in cloud, which lifted a tad to enable me to take a couple of photos but it was clear vis at the top would be poor. 

As I approached the steep climb at the western end I spotted a group of 4 young walkers behind me.  I never like to be passed on a hill so increased my pace as best I could and was pleased to be able to stay in front of them all the way to the top (60 is the new 40 apparently but I felt all of my 60 years at that point!).

Relying on my GPS to take me safely onto the right route off the top I glanced behind me after about 30 minutes of leaving the top to see it now bathed in glorious sunshine! 

If only I’d walked slower today I’d have enjoyed the views from the top, but at least I was now able to take off my wet weather gear.  I did consider for a second or two about returning up the hill, but in the end decided to head on towards Horton, the draw of the famous Pen y Ghent café being stronger.   There I signed the book and had one of their distinctive ‘pint mugs of tea’.  Another one followed which kept me occupied until my wife arrived to collect me.

5 June - Cowling to Malham

Dropped off around 0930 by my wife, where she’d collected me the day before, and with a quick wave I was off.  I found today a rather boring walk, joining as it does the end of the South Pennines to the beginning of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.  Generally it’s a succession of rolling countryside full of fields, mainly inhabited by sheep, with the attraction of following part of the Leeds and Liverpool canal for a short while. 

The highlight of the walk for me was going to be visiting the famous Dalesman Café in Gargrave. I say was because it was the Tuesday after the Jubilee Weekend, and the only day that weekend (and probably the whole year) that the café was shut!!  I could hardly credit it when I saw the sign on the door, looking forward as I was to a lovely cup of tea.  Thwarted I pressed on towards Malham, but then remembered the Townend Farm shop and cafe in Airton, so diverted there for a tea and a welcome slice of walnut cake! 

Eventually I managed to pull myself away and walked on into Malham and Beck Hall where we were staying.  Great welcome even though I’d arrived early and got another pot of tea to enjoy sitting outside listening to the babbling brook until the family turned up about an hour later.

That evening we ate in the Buck Inn, not particularly liked by the rest of the family but I had a good meal, although pricey, and a great pint of Theakstons.

4 June - Badgersfield Farm to Cowling

No lift needed today as I’d finished here yesterday so leaving the family to have a slow start I got away promptly after breakfast and headed across fields full of sheep and crossed Colden Water over a lovely old ‘clapper’ bridge.

A gentle slope then leads over Heptonstall Moor, with some great views, before crossing a footbridge across Graining Water and on to Walshaw Dean reservoir, where I stopped for a spot of lunch.  From there the route got busier as I approached Withins Heights, but the tourists disappeared as I go closer to Ponden Reservoir, where there are a few steep, but thankfully short, climbs up on to Ickornshaw Moor and thence to Cowling, where I was again picked up by my wife.

That evening we ate again at the Pack Horse inn, and I was feeling quite pleased that so far I’d not found the walk too challenging.

3 June - Bleakedgate Moor to Badgersfield Farm

Day dawned early, and I was awake by 6, unfortunately the rest were still fast asleep!  Eventually got to breakfast at 8, and then it was into the car to be dropped where I finished yesterday, allowing wife and daughter to head towards the Eureka Children’s Museum in Halifax.

Weather was not good when I was dropped off, rain and wind, so it was on with the waterproofs and then away.  The walk started with a view I’d be looking forward to, the sight of the vehicles rushing under the bridge that carries the Pennine Way across the M62.  From there a short walk across Blackstone Edge, passing the Aiggin Stone, leads down to the A58 and the White Horse pub.  I’d originally intended to stop here for lunch, but given the extra miles yesterday I was now way too early (shame cos it looked very inviting) so pressed on past Blackstone Edge reservoir and two more before turning right to follow Warland Drain in the direction of Stoodley Pike. 

From there it’s downhill into the River Calder valley, followed by an uphill climb that can be tricky to follow until reaching the flatter fields surrounding Badgersfield Farm.  Worth noting here that my Etrex, like elsewhere, kept me unerringly on the straight and narrow, without it I might have already done a few more extra miles!

Ate tonight in the Stubbing Wharf in Hebden, another lovely meal and good ale to wash it down.

2 June - Crowden to Bleakedgate Moor

Another good night’s sleep, and a typical YH breakfast, enough to keep me going all day!  Got away by 9 although I wasn’t sure how far I’d be walking today.  My wife and daughter were driving up to collect me and take me on to Badgersfield Farm B&B near Hebden Bridge, with 3 potential pick ups planned between Standedge and Windy Hill.

A quick climb away from Crowden and I’m at the top of Laddow rocks, with fine views across Crowden Great Brook. 

Onwards across Black Hill and then down to Wessenden Head, followed by a gentle stroll along the reservoirs, before arriving at the A62 at Standedge.  Texts between my wife and myself meant that I was walking to the furthest of the 3 pick-ups, which would mean a longer walk today but an easier day tomorrow, so off I pushed across White Hill and onto the car park on the A672 just short of the M62.  

Twenty minutes later my wife and daughter turned up, and we headed off to the B&B.  Badgersfield Farm is directly on the Pennine Way, and Miriam and Gordon were excellent hosts.  Rooms are very spacious with comfortable beds, which we all made good use of after a lovely meal at the Pack Horse Inn just outside Hebden.

1 June - Edale to Crowden

Day one dawned and a quick look out the window showed low cloud on the surrounding hills, but I’d enjoyed a lovely night’s sleep so felt well rested.  Breakfast was a gargantuan affair, and set me up perfectly to start the Pennine Way.  As I went to pay I got a surprise when Theresa told me to put the payment towards Help for Heroes, the charity I was raising money for, a very generous gesture and much appreciated. Leaving the B&B I switched on my GPS and, after my recent problem that required a visit to Go Outdoors when they replaced the ‘broken’ Etrex, I was relieved to see it boot normally!  Then followed the short walk into Edale, to arrive at the Nag’s Head where I reset the trip on my GPS, never to reset it until the walk was over. Gulp … it was now 0810 … time to take the first inch towards the 268 miles or so. 

Leaving the Nag’s Head I headed up the ‘old’ route that took me up Grindsbrook

onto the Kinder Plateau, and was pleasantly surprised to reach the top within the hour I’d mentally given myself. 

Very misty on top, but thanks to my GPS I had little trouble finding my way across the Kinder plateau to Kinder Downfall

The rest of the trip to Crowden YH seemed a simple enough stroll across to Mill Hill (where I bumped into Peak Lad from the walking forum) and onwards to Bleaklow, with a pause when I reached Snake Pass for lunch.  Having heard that Day One puts many Pennine Wayfarers off I was pleased at my (apparent) fitness level, since I completed the 17 miles in just over 7 hours.  I’d managed to book one of the few single rooms at Crowden YH, and very comfortable it was too, allowing me to swiftly change out of my boots and then sup the can of Speckled Hen that I’d sneaked into my rucksack at the last moment before leaving home! 

Had the evening meal at Crowden, fish cake to start and then a Thai red curry washed down with a bottle of Undertaker ale, a lovely pint!

31 May

Well this is it, the culmination of planning over the last year of my lifelong wish to walk the Pennine Way.  I woke early, having had a rather restless night full of anticipation for the 2 weeks or so that lay ahead.  Finished the final packing of the rucksack, to find it weighed in at just under 15 kgs when fully loaded (including around 3L of fluids).  It’s a rucksack I never intended to take with me, a Eurohike 65L that I got in a sale in Blacks for just over £20 last summer.  Bargain!  Plan always was to use (abuse?) it during my training and then buy a better one for the walk, but it suited me so well that I decided to stick with it.  Bottom compartment contains all my spare clothing, wash kit and a pair of soft shoes for ‘evening wear’.  Top compartment has my ‘emergency stuff’, comprehensive first aid kit, emergency rations, towel and spare socks just in case my feet get too wet while walking, hydration pack, phone and space for my waterproof shell and fleece. Top pocket has my hat, sweatband, gloves and waterproof trousers.  Map pocket contains spare compass, whistle and Paddy Dillon’s well-thumbed Pennine Way Guide.  Side pockets contain snacks, spare water and lucozade … oh, and the essential (for me anyway) ‘tea flask’!

The 5 hour train journey from Worthing to Edale was uneventful and on time, depositing me just before 5 pm, not bad for £31.  I’d booked a room with Mark and Theresa, who run the Ollerbrook Barn B&B just outside Edale.  Greeted like a long lost friend on arrival and shown to a lovely room with views across the Hope valley.

Spent a few minutes firing up my GPS (Etrex 20) and left it sitting for about half an hour to ensure it had built up its database and now knew it was some 200 miles North of where it was last switched on.

Spent the evening in the Ramblers Inn, having read quite poor reviews about the Nags Head.  Beer and food in the Ramblers was excellent, and I thoroughly enjoyed the steak and ale pie and the pint that helped to wash it down.  Could have spent all evening there, but mindful of the challenge that lay ahead I didn’t, and was safely tucked up in bed by ten.