16 June - Homeward bound

Kathleen’s breakfast was one of the best I’d been offered during my trip, but for some reason I wasn’t able to finish it, feeling slightly queasy at some point, so much so that I took a couple of paracetomal to see if that would help.  I’ve no idea what was causing it, and once home also had a few bouts of it.  It was possibly due to the food at the Border Inn, but more likely just the sign of the exhaustion I was feeling after my battle with the weather across the Cheviots.

Saying my goodbyes, and having had directions from Kathleen to help me change buses in Kelso, I caught the bus from KY to Kelso, which left bang on time at 0920.  I knew once I arrived in Kelso I’d only have 5 minutes to get myself to the bus for Berwick-upon-Tweed, where I was to catch the train to Worthing.  If I missed it I had an alternative, but it required 2 buses and a circuitous route, so I was mightily relieved when the bus dropped me in Kelso slightly early and Kathleen’s directions proved spot on. 

The train journey proved uneventful, apart from a delay while on the tube between stations in London, and I was reunited with my wife and daughter bang on time on Saturday evening, my lifelong ambition over!

15 June - Bryness to Kirk Yetholme

I woke around 5 as light dawned, and was away from Bryness by 5.30.  Rain had already started, so it was on with the waterproofs before leaving Forest View, but it stopped just before I started the climb away from the A68 up onto Bryness Hill.  That lull was the only part of the route that was dry, and as I crested Bryness Hill I got hit by the wind and the rain.  While the rain was heavy my waterproofs coped with that, but the wind was something else.  Strong and seemingly constantly off to my right or into my face, making going extremely tough and at times so strong as to nearly push me over.

Wind chill was beginning to affect my hands and foolishly I left it slightly too long before I got my gloves out, as my fingers were struggling to work fully.  I had a pair of hand warmers in my sac, and those combined with the gloves at least got some feeling back into my hands allowing me to press on until I’d covered the first 9 miles to Yearning Saddle Hut.  Once there I was able to strip off my Berghaus shell, get a hot meal going and change socks, as for the second time on the walk my Asolo fabric boots had simply been overwhelmed by the sheer amount of water they were having to face, both from the rain and the very boggy ground.

Mentally buoyed up after a hot curry it was then back out into the wind.  The walk to the next hut, at Hen Hole, seemed to take forever and apart from remembering it was still wet and windy much of it is a blur.  I remember reaching the track junction at Clennell Street, and wishing at that point I was to be collected and taken back to Bryness to be dropped there again tomorrow, but as I hadn’t booked their ‘2 day package’ I walked on.  It wasn’t long after that I began to get quite concerned, as I could feel myself getting colder and beginning to recognise the very early stages of hypothermia.  This was despite a base layer, fleece and Berghaus shell but even they were slowly allowing the cold in, mainly due to the wind chill caused by the strong wind, so I was relieved to see the signpost pointing the way to the Cheviot spur, where I was able to turn left and head across Auchope Cairn and quickly down into the hut at Hen Hole.

Glad at last to be out of the wind again, I started the second of my hot meals cooking and then had a good look at the map.  Conditions were so poor that I knew I had to seriously consider waiting out the storm at the hut, but the distance from the hut to the point where the poor weather route dives off to the West of the Cheviots, and quickly drops into the valley below, where I knew I would get respite from the wind, was only 2 miles and I was confident I could manage that, so after eating my vegetable curry (not that nice but hot!) it was back out into the open.

Shortly after leaving the hut comes the final hill, the Schil, and it was a slightly sad moment, knowing that from there it was downhill to KY and the end of my 15 day journey, but never-the-less I was glad to be off it as I could then drop rapidly away from the Cheviots and into calm air, although the rain continued.

From there it is a pretty simple walk into KY and I was able to ring the bell at Cross Keys B&B bang on 6 o’clock, and must have looked like a drowned rat when Kathleen opened the door.  I’d picked Cross Keys as it is the closest B&B to the end of the Pennine Way, and when I did so some 6 months ago I could never have imagined how pleased I would have been to get there, knowing that I didn’t have to walk any further at that precise moment!

I got a lovely warm Scottish welcome from Kathleen, and was relieved to be shown to a lovely room overlooking the KY Green, with views across to the Border Hotel and, if not still obscured by the low cloud, the Cheviots!  After stripping off and warming up with gallons of tea and a hot shower, I headed across to the Border Hotel to sign the book, get my certificate and sink a few pints of real ale, not necessarily in that order! 

Having enquired about ordering food, and finding they were very busy that night so couldn’t offer me anything for about an hour or so, I settled into a corner to reflect on the day’s events.

I think the barman took pity on me, as my order was taken shortly and the food arrived within 15 minutes, rather than the expected hour, and while it may have been my exhausted state the food was superb, and quite clearly showed why the Border Hotel was so popular.

Back in my room, I checked the odometer on my Etrex 20.  The distance is quoted at 268 miles in most guidebooks.  My GPS showed 265.7 miles, pretty accurate considering I taken the original (and 2 miles shorter) route at the start over Kinder rather than up Jacob’s Ladder.

Then it was off to bed, with sleep coming pretty rapidly!

14 June - Bellingham to Bryness

Breakfast at Linden Cottage was on a par with the accommodation, pretty poor, so I didn’t linger and got away fairly quickly.  On the map this looked like another long day, but after yesterday the walking was extremely easy, with the 16 or so miles covered in just under 6 hours.  The first part of the walk is across heather moorland,

and the latter through the Kielder Forest,

where on the day I walked through it seemed to constantly reverberate to the sound of artillery firing at nearby Otterburn ranges, bringing back memories of my time there in my early twenties firing 25 pounders and 3” mortars!

Thanks to the swift passage I arrived at Forrest View quite early, so sat outside and enjoyed a well-earned rest until Colin and Joyce returned, when I was welcomed inside.  Forrest View is an experience not to be missed.  Colin and Joyce have turned what was a run-down youth hostel into 5 star accommodation, while still keeping prices extremely reasonable.  Add the fact that Colin runs his own bar with various real ales on tap, that food is also served in the evenings and is of a high quality and you have a recipe for a great place to stay.  If I’d known then what I was to face tomorrow, I’d have taken advantage of their package that sees guests picked up between Bryness and Kirk Yetholme allowing the route to be split into 2 days!

As it was I intended to start early (around 6) and breakfast on route, and while the weather forecast that evening predicted rain it didn’t quite convey the storm that I was about to face.  Ignorance is bliss they say and that, plus a couple of pints of real ale, at least allowed me a good night’s sleep!

13 June - Greenhead to Bellingham

This was a tough and long day, and for anyone reading this blog and intending to do the Pennine Way I suggest it should be split into two days.  While Hadrian’s Wall is clearly a great historic attraction,

the terrain is strength sapping as you are constantly descending and climbing steep slopes as you follow the wall along the roller coaster crest of the Whin Sill, and progress to Hotbank Crags, where at last the path turns away from the wall, was slow. 

Pace picks up as you head northwards, although the path was pretty boggy at times, especially around Hawk Side but I enjoyed that part of the walk, arriving at Bellingham around 5.30, where I was staying at Linden Cottage, a B&B up for sale and not to be recommended. 

There I was advised to eat at the Rose and Crown, but if you like real ale don’t bother as they don’t serve any!  Instead I crossed the road to the Cheviot Hotel, which serves good real ale and has a comprehensive food menu.

12 June - Alston to Greenhead

After a good night’s sleep and a lovely local breakfast at Lowbyer Manor, I elected to take the South Tyne Trail to rejoin the Pennine Way at Kirkhaugh Station.  Until Burnstones the Pennine Way crosses and recrosses the South Tyne Trail and so it’s possible to follow it all the way to Burnstones, but I was keen to stay on the Way itself as much as possible. After Burnstones Maiden Way, Hartleyburn Common and Blenkinsopp Common seemed to follow in quick succession, and I arrived at Holmhead Farm Guesthouse just before 3, to be welcomed by Alan and his wife Judy, again with a nice pot of tea! 

Overall though I found this B&B to be poor value for money, with no TV in the room and a duvet that was far too thick for the weather, meaning a restless night’s sleep and it was difficult to see why they charged £14 more than Lowbyer Manor.  The plus side was visiting the Greenhead Hotel, good ale, tasty food and friendly staff.  Knowing that they also do accommodation I’d book there should I ever do the Pennine Way again!

11 June - Dufton to Alston

Away from the YH by 8, and started the long approach to Cross Fell, the highest point on the Pennine Way.  After passing Dufton Pike the map indicates this is going to be a long slog to the top, but in reality I found it rather easy, maybe the ‘early to bed’ last night recharged my batteries more than I’d hoped!  Mist descended shortly after crossing Swindale Beck but I was still surprised at how quickly (so it seemed) that Knock Fell was reached, then

Great Dun Fell

and Cross Fell, the cross shelter there appearing out of the mist at about 50 metres visibility. 

I knew Greg’s Hut wasn’t too far on, so resisted the urge to stop and headed for Greg’s Hut instead, where I paused for lunch. 

By the time I’d finished the mist had lifted, and so I was able to start the long descent into Garrigill able to at last see more than 50 metres or so in front.

While I still felt an ache in my right thigh the descent into Garrigill was far less painful than the previous day, so I was happy that the strain/sprain was improving, and hoped it wouldn’t reappear (thankfully it didn’t).

The route from Garrigill to Alston roughly follows the River South Tyne, but it’s partly overgrown with many styles, progress appeared slow until I at last emerged onto the A686 leading into Alston, where I was staying at Lowbyer Manor B&B.  This has to be the best B&B along the route, and one of the cheapest at £36, which goes to prove you don’t need to charge the earth to produce a good quality overnight stay.  Of the next 2 B&Bs I stayed at, one was £14 more yet slightly inferior, the other was £3 cheaper and I’d never stay there again, nor recommend it to anyone.

Welcomed by Laura with a fresh pot of tea and biscuits, served in their impressive lounge, I was feeling very relaxed and now confident nothing would stop me finishing, although I was very nearly proved wrong on the last day!

10 June - Middleton to Dufton

This was always going to be a long day, and so it proved.  The pain in my thigh had thankfully gone, it was dry and initially the route follows the River Tees,

passing the 2 waterfalls of Low and High Force,

and generally being an easy, level walk on good paths alongside the river.  Then comes the sting, the rocks of Falcon Clints!  In my youth I’m sure I would have skipped over the mile or so of boulders but at 60 I found them very difficult and slow to cross, so I was immensely glad when it was all behind me.

Cauldron Scout was an amazing sight, in full flow after the recent rains, and is probably one of the, if not the, most impressive waterfall in the UK. 

Having climbed up to the top the nagging ache in my right thigh, which had appeared late yesterday, was back.  By the time I’d passed High Cup Nick

and was starting the descent towards Dufton it had slowed my pace downhill to around 2 mph, and so I limped into Dufton Youth Hostel worried about the impact it might have on the coming days.

The evening meal at the YH was a typical YH meal, washed down with a bottle of Undertaker Ale, and then it was an early night for 3 reasons.  The days walk had really tired me out, tomorrow was described as a ‘tough day’ in the Cicerone guide, and I wanted to give my leg the chance to recover as it was clear that if it didn’t, or even got worse, then all hopes of finishing might be wishful thinking.